A Closer Look at Longines' Iconic Heritage with Moonphase Timepieces

You'll notice that the new Longines Flagship Heritage quickly catches your eye. It costs a fair $3,050 and features a neat, appealing dial, moonphase, and a 38.5mm diameter that promises comfortable wear. But does it succeed in achieving its goals? And these days, what even is a moonphase like this trying to accomplish?

The Flagship Heritage is thicker than you might expect for a moonphase with refined aspirations, at 12.4 mm. It rests fairly tall and flat on the wrist. This is also because, when the Flagship Heritage is placed on a table, just the caseback will rest on it; the lugs will float slightly higher. This is because the caseback is positioned lower than the lugs. This means that the watch lacks the curved, draping shape that I like on dressier watches, and it happens even when the watch is on your wrist.

In contrast to earlier moonphases such as the Master Collection, Longines opted for a sportier (but more compact) case profile for the Flagship Heritage. The Flagship Heritage has polished facets on the lugs that transition to a brushed midcase, and it measures 47mm from lug to lug. As may be expected for a watch of this kind, the screw-down caseback features Longines' iconic gold-and-blue enamel symbol and offers the Flagship Heritage 30 meters of water resistance.

Because the moonphase module is an addition to the base caliber, the crown rests relatively low into the midcase. The Longines caliber L899.5, which is based on an ETA caliber from the parent Swatch Group, is ticked inside. It makes use of a straightforward moonphase complication that advances one tooth every day using a disk with 59 teeth and two moon disks printed on it. Given that a lunar month is roughly 29.5 days (or, to put it more precisely, 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes, and 2 seconds), this method makes sense for a moonphase that is roughly three grand.

Three dial variants are available for the Flagship Heritage Moonphase, all of which are available in a steel case: an opaline silver with gold-tone accents, or either silver or blue with accents made of white metal. I personally tested the last option. The moonphase and date subdial's circular graining contrasts with the blue's sunray finish. Super-LumniNova dauphine hands are polished, and I find it a little odd that the dial lacks lume. Usually, lumed hands are matched with luminous dials; with vintage watches, this can be a handy way to tell if the dial and hands were meant to be together. The matching domed crystal seems to draw attention to the dial's small domed shape. Matching alligator straps are available for the Flagship Heritage Moonphase, however, I would promptly replace the dressy option with something more casual that still fits the 19mm lug width.

Simply said, the Longines Flagship Heritage aims to achieve different goals than what enthusiasts. A moonphase is for those that enjoy the concept or feel of a moonphase, as they aren't really practical or beneficial. Tthe moonphase's anachronism. And perhaps you're fond of the anachronism that is the mechanical watch if you still believe in the antiquated concept of a moonphase. Thanks to concessions made in the movement, you might not care that the case is excessively thick or sporty—at least not yet.